Guangzhou Food: Michelin or Farmhouse – So, Where's the *Actual* Good Stuff?
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If you don't mind a less-than-ideal environment, you should definitely try farmhouse restaurants. Their ingredients are so fresh that the food tastes great even if the chef isn't a master. Especially for chicken, goose, or fish, my family will specifically seek out farmhouses by mountain streams just for their 'mountain stream fish' (山坑鱼 - shān kēng yú). What you experienced is quite common at these places. If you want to eat at a farmhouse restaurant, you really need a local to guide you, as the staff often don't understand or speak Mandarin. Also, the saltiness can depend on the dishes you order; this can happen even at Michelin restaurants. Steamed, plain boiled (白切 - bái qiē), or lightly stir-fried dishes naturally won't be too salty, but braised or heavily stir-fried dishes always carry the risk of being salty...
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Michelin restaurants aren't usually that salty! I've ordered similar dishes there. Even Bingsheng (炳胜), which I recall as being on the saltier side, wasn't that salty. Places like Guang Yu Xuan (广御轩) or Jade Garden (玉堂春暖) are even more restrained with their seasoning. With farmhouse restaurants, it's not just salty; some dishes are unevenly seasoned, with occasional 'salt bombs' (咸味暴击 - xián wèi bàojī). Even the stir-fried seasonal vegetables were incredibly salty. Are they doing this on purpose because I'm not a local?
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It's true, people go to farmhouse restaurants mainly for delicious, affordable food – great value for money, and sometimes they offer ingredients you wouldn't find in Michelin places. If you're not looking for particularly obscure dishes and have a generous budget, you can't go wrong with a Michelin restaurant.
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Exactly.
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For tourists who aren't on a tight budget, Michelin restaurants are still recommended.
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If everyone judges 'value for money' (性价比 - xìngjiàbǐ) solely by raw ingredient cost, then definitely don't go to Michelin restaurants. Having tried several 1-2 star places, they do have their standards. Those who say 'eating at Michelin is being a sucker' (水鱼 - shuǐyú, meaning 'easy target/gullible person') probably haven't even tried a single one-star restaurant. As a foodie who's lived in Guangzhou for 9 years ('广漂' - Guǎng piāo), I love both farmhouse restaurants and Michelin places. Farmhouses are mainly for the ingredients; Michelin is for the culinary techniques, quality control, ambiance, and service.
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Absolutely!
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The good thing about Michelin restaurants is that more than half the time, you won't be disappointed ('踩雷' - cǎi léi, step on a landmine/have a bad experience). If something isn't good, you can often send it back. The environment is also better. Plus, for dim sum and desserts, Michelin places are probably top-notch; for other dishes, it's not always a guarantee.
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Totally!
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For tourists, Michelin is a safe bet. The ceiling might not be super high, but the floor (minimum quality) is guaranteed. I've pretty much tried all the Michelin restaurants in Guangzhou, and I'd say they're generally upper-middle tier. Even the claypot dishes (啫啫煲 - jē jē bāo) at HUI SHI JIA (惠食佳), the sunflower chicken at White Swan Hotel (白天鹅), and Bingsheng (炳胜) are just average in my book (because I've had much better eel rice and concubine chicken elsewhere). Farmhouse restaurants, on the other hand, depend on local specialties: Nansha for seafood, greens, and lotus root; Panyu for fig chicken; Qingyuan for chicken; Taishan for eel rice, five-flavor goose, and sandworm congee; Zhongshan for squab and crispy grass carp (脆肉鲩 - cuì ròu wǎn); Shunde for Jun'an roasted pig, dace fish paste, and shredded fish soup (my family avoids sashimi due to a past parasite issue); Zhuhai for Shenwan pineapple and oyster chicken pot. For me, these are all about enjoying the fresh, original flavors of the ingredients and the 'wok hei' (锅气 - guōqì, breath of the wok) of street food stalls, which Michelin places often lack. As for Hong Kong and Macau, I have one piece of advice: don't bother with chicken, duck, or goose there. But if you go for the expensive options, you'll find a plethora of Cantonese culinary masters.
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That's a fair point.
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I think Michelin food is generally tastier; their signature dishes usually offer a pleasant surprise. Most farmhouse/local restaurants are pretty average, but if I find a really good one, I'll go often, especially for the value.
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Exactly!
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Many farmhouse restaurants have poor environments and a mixed bag of diners in terms of etiquette. But if you find an authentic one, the food can be truly delicious. If you can't tolerate the setting, then stick to Michelin-type places. I might go to a farmhouse occasionally, but mostly I prefer a cleaner, more pleasant environment.
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I rarely go to farmhouse restaurants either.
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As a local, I'd choose Michelin; I've never bought into the farmhouse hype...
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People from Shanghai really aren't suited for farmhouse restaurants; they should just stick to Michelin.