Seriously, Who's Out There Dissing Hangzhou? Let Me Chime In!

[Bonnie Beatty]

A Few Honest Words About Traveling to Hangzhou

Hey everyone! The “Golden Week” holiday just ended, and I bet there's already another round of online complaints that criticize Hangzhou and advise people not to visit.

Honestly, during the Golden Week, I made my way to West Lake twice. Oh man! The crowd was overwhelming! Not to mention potential traffic jams and the possibility of adjusting to different local flavors—it makes me think that if I were just an average tourist rather than a seasoned local, I could still feel disappointed.

Of course, as we all know, almost all tourism spots tend to disappoint visitors with overly high expectations during holidays or in highly popular destinations. In the sense of "overcrowding spoiling all joy," this is somewhat a universal rule.

In all honesty, the beauty of Hangzhou might not stun you at first glance.

When it comes to natural scenery, Hangzhou can't compare to Tibetan or Xinjiang regions or even the majestic landscapes of Northwest China; similarly, when it comes to fashion and fun, Hangzhou pales in comparison to vibrant cities like Shanghai, Chengdu, and Changsha.

However, Hangzhou has its unique charm:

• Hangzhou is arguably one of the best cities that marry urbanity with natural beauty. Just moments away from bustling city centers, you can find yourself in tranquil areas surrounded by mountains and lakes.
  • Besides West Lake and its surroundings, you can also enjoy Xiaohu Lake, Baimalu Lake; even along the Grand Canal, you can find numerous parks to offer a quiet escape.
• Plus, culture plays a major role in Hangzhou; it’s the home of historical poets and officials who have bestowed their artistic appreciation upon different parts of the city. Bai Juyi, Su Dongpo, Zhang Dai—the list is endless for those who have written beautiful poems praising Hangzhou’s landscapes.
  • Cultural Note: These two historical figures—Bai Juyi and Su Dongpo—are both renowned Chinese literary icons, known for their talents in poetry and administration. Their time spent living and working in Hangzhou added significant cultural value to the area.

The true charm of Hangzhou, therefore, probably needs to be experienced by someone who knows the city well, someone that’s seen what seasons do to its many sides—or anyone who has explored it for more than just a day.

Let’s Talk About the Lakes in Hangzhou:

It’s clear that the largest and most beautiful lake in the heart of Hangzhou is none other than West Lake.

• An old saying goes like this: “I cannot leave Hangzhou without parting with this lake”—meaning half of my attachment to Hangzhou is due to the magnificent view of West Lake.
• Another often quoted line reads: “I wish to compare the West Lake with Xizi, whether she wears light makeup or heavily applies it all; they compliment each other beautifully.”

Next up, would be Xiaohu, or Lesser West Lake.

• Although Xiaohu frequently refers to itself as the sister of West Lake, with a slight undertone of envy here, historically speaking, its own grandeur is no less. There’s even a historical reference saying “A single boat on the waters of Xiaohu Lake narrates 80 years of tales.”
• ️ Let Me Complain Here: One thing I want to highlight about traveling to Xiaohu is its metro station. It’s a bit off course!
  • This station, called “Xiaohu,” is nearly 2 kilometers away from the actual lake! That can be pretty confusing—and annoying—to newcomers.
  • Advice For Visitors: Please do note, when arriving at the Xiaohu metro station, you will need to continue walking a good distance or look out for local bus services or taxi rides to truly explore the famous district near the lake.

The ecological environment in Hangzhou keeps blooming, too:

• Apart from the usual resident mandarin ducks, more migratory birds are spending winters or having rest here.
• Recently, there were even sightings of herons! A medium-sized waterbird.
• Yesterday, while visiting Xiaohu, I spotted a heron near a pond. With my beloved Fuji medium format camera, I was able to capture it perfectly. I modified a line from Tang poet Du Fu to praise the sight of its soaring in the middle of such vast landscapes, “What does it soar like? The blue sky’s one and only heron!"

Hopefully, these musings give future visitors who hope to travel to Hangzhou some insights into its charm!

[Mattie Lockman]

I really wish it weren't so crowded. Before 2016, you could still bike along the Su and Bai Causeways. Back then, it was a picturesque town with fewer people, full of poetic charm and a subtle fragrance. Now, it's just seas of people, live streamers, messy shared bikes, and those 'internet-famous' shops everywhere. Businesses are just out to make a quick buck; how can the food be any good? It's all pre-made, ready-to-heat meals.

[Lorena Runolfsson]

I even rode a three-person tandem bike on Su Causeway, though two-person tandems were more common.

[Kristi Doyle]

'I couldn't bring myself to leave Hangzhou, half the reason I linger is this very lake.' – From Bai Juyi's 'Spring View by the Lake'.

[Ms. Alberta Moen]

Haven't I been talking about Bai Juyi and Su Dongpo this whole time?