My Hangzhou Trip Report: Pretty Sure I Was Trapped in West Lake!

[Nathan Dickinson-Steuber]

Hello, fellow travelers! I have just returned from Hangzhou and would like to share some fresh impressions with everyone.

• The Sense of Being "Trapped" in West Lake

  • The most well-known attraction in Hangzhou - West Lake - is always brimming with people! For instance, the famous Broken Bridge (where Xu Xian and Bai Suzhen met in the Legend of White-Snake) is teemingwith crowds. Though it was interesting to follow the flowing crowd when I first arrived, it ultimately felt anticlimactic.
  • Then there's Sudi (a long causeway cutting through the lake). It was overcrowded last time, so this time I learned my lesson and took a quick detour after heading down the path a short while.
  • Flower Harbor (part of the Ten Views of West Lake, popular for flower appreciation and watching fish) didn't give me much to look at since I visited late in the evening and couldn't see many fish.
  • Yet, I thoroughly enjoyed TaiZibang Park (another scenic spot within the West Lake area known for its tulips), which offered lush greenery and ample trees. It felt particularly comforting to take a walk there.

• An Unexpected Treat for History Enthusiasts

  • I am fond of history, hence my fondest memories are centered on Yuefei Temple (a shrine memorializing Yue Fei), a super-celebrated national hero from Song Dynasty noted for his loyalty to his country.
  • This temple may not be the first choice for common tourists, but it exuded dignity and solemnity, leaving me impressed by its grandeur and beauty.
  • The plaque with "Heavenly Heart" inscribed at the entrance (meaning his loyalty was as transparent as daylight and night sky) had a powerful impact on me.
  • The famous phrase "Serve the Country with Loyalty" inscribed on the wall of Yue Fei's tomb sent chills down my spine as I reflected on this brave hero resting eternally here.
  • And lastly, there was a small pond in front of the National Light Pavilion (a place where he shone) adorned with water lilies, whose radiance under sunbeams was also beautiful.

• Colleges Are Worth Visiting Too

  • Zhihua Pond in the historical Yuquan Campus where I took a stroll stood out among other college campuses. Although my plan was to visit Zijin Campus, the newer and larger one, I failed to secure a reservation there, so Yuquan ended up making my day.
  • Among all, I remembered most the lotus lake opposite Zhe Ji Zhen, an icon of the early history of science and education, and the massive Chairman Mao statue in the campus that seemed much more impressive than in online photo.
  • There were also some ancient and grand teaching buildings with a classic and elegant charm (except that I couldn't find the typical flying eaves of Chinese architecture). Though the scenery was not spectacular, the quiet atmosphere and calmness on campus provide an ideal relaxation destination away from the crowds of holidays.

• Travel Tips and Pitfalls

  • Beware of the Grand Canal boats! This historic canal stretches from Beijing to Hangzhou and transports people all along the way. Although I took a ferry early at the departure station fearing crowd during the holidays, a huge ferry which could hold up to 150 travelers arrived with its windows tinted blue — I felt overwhelmed and disappointed.
  • I also visited the Qiantang River Bridge (China’s first self-designed bridge) and climbed the Liuhe Pagoda (a historic tower overlooking the region), but I didn't feel very impressed by both landmarks because it appeared as if nothing was magnificent enough in those places.

• My Conclusion

  • Generally speaking, if your trip were to include the famous tourist sites in Hangzhou, you would likely find it less enjoyable due to the overwhelming crowds around West Lake.
  • It is more rewarding to explore lesser-known attractions that personally interest you.
  • Not every site will amaze you, but overcrowding can dampen the experience altogether.
  • Moreover, the size of West Lake entails a hefty time investment; thus, it seems like you are "trapped" within this scenic park.
  • I prefer taking trips where you get to frequently switch locations within hours. Spending too much time in one spot makes me feel like squandering time without getting to see much.

[Andrea Hand]

The tulips at Prince Bay (Taiziwan) were beautiful, but you missed them; they've all faded by the time you arrived.

[Dr. Wade Boyer]

I knew about the tulips and was originally hoping to see them. It's a shame they were gone by April, but that doesn't stop me from thinking Prince Bay (Taiziwan) itself is beautiful.

[Iris Marquardt]

Next time, you could head to the west side of West Lake – it's very pleasant for cycling.

[Dr. Mandy Walter-Reichert]

When you say the west side, do you mean the area up from Prince Bay (Taiziwan)?

[Kathryn Hermiston]

I avoided the crowds and went to Maojiabu (a great spot for birdwatching, very few people, lots of birds, and very pristine/natural). I also visited Hupao Park (a bit more crowded, but green everywhere, it reminded me of Tiger Hill in Suzhou).

[Madeline Hermann III]

Oh! None of the guides I checked mentioned these places. It's a shame I didn't get to see them.

[Emma Kihn]

I felt that too. The sights are too concentrated. No matter where you go, you can't seem to get away from West Lake, and you always end up at in77. It's tiring. Four days of this left me completely exhausted.

[Kristi Doyle]

It's just that the travel guides are too homogenized. Everyone follows the same routes. I think exploring a few different, less-common spots would provide a fresher experience.

[Mr. Nathan Waelchi]

Next time you're here, you could book a visit to the Zhijiang Campus of Zhejiang University, the Zhijiang branches of the Zhejiang Provincial Museum and the Intangible Cultural Heritage Museum, the Zhijiang branch of the Zhejiang Library, the Xiangshan Campus of the China Academy of Art, the Zhejiang Conservatory of Music, Xianghu Lake, or the Liangzhu Archaeological Site. They offer a deep sense of culture and history, and are great for a relaxing stroll when it's not crowded.

[Candace McDermott]

I remember the Zhijiang campus having a retro vibe. I prefer really authentic, original places, so I went to the Yuquan campus instead. I've seen a lot of museums lately and am a bit tired of them. I wanted to go to Xianghu Lake, but didn't have enough time. I did visit the Zhejiang Library on Shuguang Road; I recall the Zhijiang branch is new and very high-tech, but it was too far for me.

[Dr. Lance Glover]

As a Zhejiang University alum/old-timer, let me tell you, the Yuquan campus is way better than Zijingang.

[Terrence Beer]

Haha, why do you say that?

[Misty Dare]

Because West Lake is right in the city center and it's huge. But many people don't fully explore it. Beishan Road, Nanshan Road, Longjing Road, Meiling Road, Hupao Road, and Yanggong Causeway are all completely different! Just Beishan Road alone has so much history.

[Rafael Rau]

I thought the 'Ten Scenic Spots' were supposed to be the most beautiful, but when I visited, they felt a bit underwhelming. What kind of history do these roads you mentioned hold?

[Abel Schulist MD]

I remember the boats on the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal had windows you could open. I took one back in '19.

[Mr. Nathan Waelchi]

The one I was on had air conditioning, so the windows couldn't be opened.

[Danielle Purdy-Weimann]

It's because you couldn't escape the typical tourist experience either.

[Kay Oberbrunner]

That Prince Bay (Taiziwan) you liked? That's its true, unadorned self after the tulip crowds have gone. The Yu Qian Shrine is similar, with very few tourists. It's the same for other parts of West Lake; when you come with hurried expectations, perhaps it's like seeing it through a veil, missing its true face. The most natural and genuine beauty is often discovered unexpectedly, perhaps during an early morning or evening walk.