Suzhou & Hangzhou: Worlds Apart! (No, Seriously)
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Hi everyone! As a "desert duck" from the north who has long heard of the saying, "Above is heaven, below are Suzhou and Hangzhou," which means that Suzhou and Hangzhou are as beautiful as paradise! Finally, I had the chance to explore the water towns in Southern Jiangnan (a region south of the Yangtze River, famous for its scenic waters). I specially arranged to visit both cities on the same day – morning in Hangzhou and afternoon in Suzhou. The reality? The two cities were completely different!
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Suzhou:
- I felt like Suzhou was more like a quiet, cool-headed person who didn’t strive to be the center of attention. Our train station was near Shantang Street, one of the most famous old streets, and we took a walk through Shantang Street and Pingjiang Road, each an old street by a river.
- The streets were not particularly crowded, but as soon as we visited the tourist attractions, there was plenty of pushing and shoving!
- The moment we stepped down from the high-speed train gave us an immediate feeling of relief from the humidity of Hangzhou (although the ‘plum rain season’ – a very humid and rainy period in early summer – caused all of Jiangnan to be wet and hot).
- Compared to Hangzhou, Suzhou was less glossy in terms of modernity, with a heavier focus on keeping its traditional “Southern Jiangnan” feel. Old houses with white walls and black tile roofs could be found everywhere, displaying a classic style of residence in the area; young women wearing Hanfu (Chinese traditional costumes) and cheongsams (a popular form-fitting dress with mandarin collars) could be seen on the streets.
- It’s great to see that many old buildings within the tourist spots are still inhabited by local people. This gives it a bustling vibe, the kind of presence that makes a city more lively.
Caution: Complaint Time:
- There are too many electric mopeds in Suzhou (known locally as “electric motorcycles” [“电瓶车”]). They run about wildly and honk their horns whenever they have the opportunity, creating a cacophony of honks [“didi-honk harmony”].
- By the way, I thought the performance of Suzhou storytelling and singing, known as Su Xiang Tan, was simply outstanding! We originally planned to hear a longer segment at the Pingjiang Culture Center, but after learning that there’d be no subtitles, we went to another place called “Shen De Hall.” Here, mostly songs and traditional comedic recitals were sung. The atmosphere was relaxed, and the female hostess had a great voice. Moreover, she gave some small bits of extra knowledge useful for out-of-town visitors.
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Hangzhou:
- The reputation of the West Lake (Hangzhou’s most famous lake) is really not exaggerated, it's truly breathtaking! I stayed in Hangzhou for about a week, and basically spent my time wandering around the West Lake.
- Everywhere, from hills to waters to ancient temples filled with incense, the poetic descriptions from my textbook finally had a real-world feel.
- In general, Hangzhou felt more modern than historical – even though in ancient times, it was once the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty. The number of people wearing Hanfu and shops specializing in selling Hanfu in the streets were not so many (or maybe just not encountered) compared to Suzhou.
- The stores in Hangzhou and the transportation were very convenient. Cosplayers (people costumed as anime characters), with all styles of outfits you might find, created a sense of openness and dynamism in this city.
- Even though the weather was very humid during my visit, other places were not really crowded except Lingyin Temple (a very famous scenic spot), where there was a lot of pushing and shoving because of its popularity.
- Reminder for first-time visitors:
- If you don’t like being mobbed by crowds, I wouldn't recommend visiting Lingyin when the number of tourists is at its peak. If you prefer the hubbub, go ahead. Otherwise, Jingci Temple would be better for its calm environment in worshipping Buddha and praying. There they served delicious vegetarian meals, and offered exquisitely-crafted Buddhist souvenirs at reasonable prices.
- Oh yes, contrary to what some people say, I didn't think Hangzhou was a food desert at all. The local dishes from Mountain Outside Mountain restaurant (a famous local eatery) tasted great!
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Hey everyone, please don't start an argument. I'm not trying to put one city down while praising the other. As an out-of-town tourist, I'm just offering some advice for those planning to visit both cities, pointing out their respective pros and cons. Of course, different people will have different experiences, and every city has its own unique charm. What truly matters is creating your own wonderful memories!
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No worries, people are used to arguing around here. There isn't a city out there that doesn't get some criticism or have aspects people try to avoid.
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My feeling is that Hangzhou residents, even those who've moved there, really cherish the city. In Suzhou, however, there are many... well, those who understand will understand. But Suzhou definitely holds a solid third place in the Jiangsu-Zhejiang-Shanghai region.
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Suzhou's modern side is best seen in the Industrial Park, a joint venture with Singapore, epitomizing a sophisticated and stylish atmosphere. In contrast, the old Gusu District largely retains its traditional Jiangnan charm, with strict height restrictions – no new building can exceed two-thirds the height of the North Temple Pagoda within the ancient city walls.
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Oh, I see! I spent most of my time wandering around the Gusu District, so that's why I felt such a strong Jiangnan atmosphere.
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Oh, so you like peace and quiet? Then this is the place for you – there's hardly anyone around, haha!
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Hangzhou truly has a lot of delicious food.
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Suzhou and Hangzhou are definitely worth a visit! I've been to places like Wuzhen (for its night views), Nanxun Ancient Town, West Lake, Suzhou's Lion Grove Garden, Hanshan Temple, and Shantang Street twice now – you absolutely shouldn't miss them. I went with a tour group for three days, costing a bit over 800 RMB. I was pleasantly surprised to find we were staying right within a scenic area, which made the trip incredibly enjoyable!
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Could you share the tour details?
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I'm planning a trip with my parents and have to choose between Suzhou and Hangzhou. Which one do you think is more worth visiting?
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I've been to both. Suzhou, Suzhou, Suzhou!
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I've been living in Suzhou for five years since I started working. I love the natural scenery here – the mountains and lakes. I'm not particularly fond of the classical gardens; I usually only visit them when friends or former classmates come to town and I take them around. What I want to say is that Suzhou's beauty extends far beyond its gardens; there's the magnificent Taihu Lake and the surrounding mountains. Since moving here, I spend most spring and autumn weekends hiking, camping, and just exploring. There are truly so many places to enjoy.
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What's the most comfortable month to visit Hangzhou in the latter half of the year?
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For Hangzhou, it's best to wait until late autumn. That's when the maple leaves turn a vibrant red, often accompanied by a poetic, misty rain.
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If Hangzhou is an elegant noblewoman, then Suzhou is a charming, refined maiden. As the saying goes, 'Paradise on Earth is half Hangzhou, half Suzhou!'
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Excuse me, if I'm choosing between Suzhou and Hangzhou, which one would you recommend? I'm heading to Shanghai soon and would like to visit one of them as a side trip.