Hangzhou: Losing Its 'Human Touch'?
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Oh, how things were different back in 2013 when I first visited Hangzhou! Back then, it was a whole other world.
There wasn't even the hint of a metro system to be seen, let alone any trendy "must-visit" spots. People’s work pace was far less intense—there was no concept of "blessing" (as in earning good fortune through hard work) yet—and there were no large shopping centers like in77.
When we talked about Xihu (West Lake), everyone would mention specific scenic attractions such as "Willows Listening to Orioles Singing" or "Pond at Gu’s Monastery", which are beautiful segments of the Ten Scenic Views of West Lake. Nowadays, people flock to "Longxing Bridge," a bustling commercial subway hub on the shore.
Hangzhou back then had a distinct local flavor. You could find vendors pushing their carts to sell goods in the streets and alleyways, especially in old districts like Haidilongxian, or Dashameng where old shops were plentiful, and the cries of hawkers filled the air, giving an appealing sense of everyday life.
A visit to Manlong Guiyu, a place known for its sweet osmanthus fragrance, meant you could sit leisurely enjoying the scent for half a day, without ever encountering traffic jams. Moreover, the climb up Shouniushan Mountain, from where one can oversee the West Lake, could be done without worrying about competing with photographers hailing for the so-called “optimal camera spot.”
The banks of the West Lake were indeed peaceful places back then, away from the hustle and bustle, unlike now, where they have become overcrowded walkways often taken over by internet celebrities.
In the past decade, more and more companies, 'elites' have poured into Hangzhou.
Is this good? Of course, Hangzhou has grown incredibly rapidly!
During these ten years, property prices have skyrocketed, and new stations crisscross the city. Areas like Yuhang and Binjiang, once mostly farmlands, have transformed into Central Business Districts lined with skyscrapers. Young adults toil daily over a 996 working schedule, enduring the rising commercialization and noise as they rush along increasingly clogged streets.This decade, I feel that Hangzhou has lost much of its local charm.
Even the Longjing tea plantations, previously perceived as a paradise, are now filled with visitors. The rustic family guesthouse nestled in the mountains display signs with refined labels such as "Guesthouse ××" or "Café ××".
The renowned "must-sees" in Hangzhou from popular travel guides have lost their familiarity.Once, I couldn't help but sigh to my friends, "This Hangzhou is losing its "fire-flavored essence.""
In response, my friend asked, "What is the 'fire-flavored essence'?"
It's difficult to describe in words, but it might be similar to the vibrant street markets of Xiamen before dawn, the lively atmosphere of Chongqing night market, or the quietness within Beijing Hutongs where elders play chess while kids play around freely. However, it definitely isn’t the modern Hangzhou now which merely sports the glamorous façade of a "paradise" while hiding a sole commercial hustle near West Lake.Nonetheless, is this change really that bad? Not at all. At least more people are pursuing dreams here.
Tips for Friends Traveling to Hangzhou:
- Internet celebrity travel guides are only for reference.
Many recommended tourist spots may be overly commercialized or overcrowded. Don't believe everything you read; try looking up reviews from locals or finding lesser-known recommendations.
To avoid disappointment: Research local reviews, or look for less popular off-the-beaten-path choices. - Seeking out 'Old Hangzhou's Charm Requires Effort.
The places brimming with ‘fire-flavored essence’ might be smaller in scale or altered appearance. You need to be proactive in discovering them, avoiding main roads and commercial areas.
To avoid disappointment: Lower your expectations, finding hidden gems becomes part of the fun. Ask local elderly residents who might have insider tips. - Highly Touristy Attractions Can Be Overcrowded.
Hotspots like West Lake, Lingyin Temple, or Dragon Well can be overwhelming during holidays and weekends. Places like Shouniu Mountain sunrise spot or Manlong Guiyu during blooming season suffer the same fate.
Crowd evasion tip: Pick weekdays, early mornings, or evenings to visit. Some vast attractions like West Lake can offer some secluded corners. - Treat 'Internet Famous' Locations with a Sober Mindset.
Bursting hotspots due to influencer endorsements may not match up to their fancy images in terms of food quality or service. Prices might also be hiking.
Don’t get scammed tip: Check negative reviews, beware of charming images. Sometimes, unremarkable street-side shops hold unexpected charms. - Get Ready for Traffic Delays.
Subway systems may help, but busy transportation hubs near famous spots still witness heavy traffic, particularly during peak tourist seasons or holidays.
Ease of traffic concerns: Prefer taking the metro then walking/bus. If the destination does not cover the subway line, do prior route planning, leaving spare time allowance.
- Internet celebrity travel guides are only for reference.
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Frankly, for many people, this so-called 'human touch' or 'liveliness' they talk about just refers to street food stalls.
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That 'human touch' or 'liveliness'? You find it at rural markets, when fishing villages cast their nets, at open-air cinemas in small towns. Even Hong Kong's bustling Lan Kwai Fong has it. Street food stalls are definitely part of it, a very representative part even. I mentioned Hai'er Lane and Dama Lane, I've said I've lived in Hangzhou for over ten years, and I've also stated that the city's progress is fundamentally a good thing. Yet, some commenters above immediately labeled me an outsider who only visits tourist traps and never ventures into residential areas. And what's wrong with being an 'outsider' anyway? 60% of Hangzhou's population isn't local. Without them, Hangzhou wouldn't be experiencing its current rapid development.
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Today's Hangzhou truly lacks that 'human touch' – and I'm a Hangzhou local, the blogger is spot on. This obsession with 'influencer culture' has made the city feel very superficial and materialistic. Guangzhou, on the other hand, has plenty of that authentic vibe. Every time I visit Guangzhou for a few days, I feel completely relaxed. The moment I'm back in Hangzhou, the rat race begins. Nowadays in Hangzhou, you barely even have time for a stroll after dinner.
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Of course, you'll feel that 'authentic vibe' when you're traveling elsewhere – you wake up naturally, no alarms. But when you're working, it's the daily grind. Squeezing onto the subway, all the influencer hype... that's just an illusion. It's the work itself that can make things feel superficial and driven by status.
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It's rather odd to search for that 'authentic vibe' in tourist attractions. Are there no queues for fried dumplings in Jiacheng Lane? Or no elderly people doing morning exercises in Liu Park? Does Xiamen lack the bustling commercial streets of Gulangyu and Zengcuo'an, or is Chongqing's Hongyadong not teeming with local character?
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Out-of-town tourists just chasing online fame wouldn't get it.
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This is downtown Hangzhou, not the main square of your small hometown county.
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This kind of low-quality, soulless commercialization is even worse than a small town's main square.
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As a Hangzhou local, I don't get why people are dissing the OP (original poster). I think he's spot on. Real Hangzhou natives are inherently unhurried, you could even say 'laid-back.' I remember riding double-decker buses with my family around West Lake as a kid, and Congbaohui and Youdongdong were our go-to snacks after school. In77 used to have a cinema and an arcade where we'd hang out on weekends. It's not that Hangzhou's development is bad; it's just become too restless and superficial. Wherever a place gets hyped online (
), everyone rushes there – like 'Wangwei Mountain' or 'Longwu Reservoir.' As soon as Xiaohongshu or Douyin promotes a spot, influencers flock there, leave their trash, and then the place gets shut down. Hangzhou has fewer and fewer places to enjoy, and even finding a good breakfast spot is getting harder. —A perspective from someone born post-2000. -
So true! For me, a key indicator of that 'authentic local vibe' is simply having places to grab breakfast.
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Actually, what the author is trying to say is that, for instance, when you go out for breakfast now, you can't find those old-school, locally-run breakfast stalls anymore. You're often stuck with chain places like Babimantou. Hope this clarifies it for everyone.
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Spot on.
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It's really about reminiscing about the past. I'm a local, from what you'd call the south side of the city. Our area, near the Drum Tower, used to be the part of Hangzhou with the most 'authentic vibe.' There's still a lot of foot traffic now, but many of these new 'influencer check-in' spots just have this... indescribable feeling. After reading your post, I get it. It truly feels more superficial now.
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The Hangzhou of the past truly had a special charm.
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I visited Hangzhou during the National Day holiday and fell completely in love with the city, all thanks to West Lake. It's incredibly beautiful. During my four days there, I cycled around West Lake every day. The lush green mountains and the clear, sparkling water truly soothed my soul. BTW, the Longxiangqiao area was packed with people, and I love people-watching, so just standing there watching the lively crowds go by made me incredibly happy. I absolutely adore Hangzhou!
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Ten years ago, when I first visited Hangzhou, my boyfriend's hometown, I was completely captivated by the fragrance of its osmanthus flowers. It was an indescribable feeling; I found myself longing for Hangzhou, believing it to be a truly wonderful place. Now, I'm married to that same boyfriend (now my husband), we've settled down and had children here in Hangzhou, yet I can no longer find that same sense of leisurely peace I once felt strolling by West Lake.
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But you know, many of the things you mentioned from the past are still around; they haven't vanished. During the day, if you go boating near the Broken Bridge, you'll still see seniors engaging in friendly kite-flying 'battles.' Stroll along the canal in the evening, and you'll find elderly men playing the saxophone, and 'square dancing aunties' are a common sight. And those nighttime street food stalls in various spots? They haven't diminished at all.